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The Third Degree: ‘Fashion is not about fitting in, it’s about standing out’

Killygordon’s Hollie Marie Gallagher, conceptual designer and founder of luxury fashion brand Dare To Howl, on being named in The Irish Times ‘50 People to Watch’ in 2026; choosing Magee 1866 weaving for her graduate collection in honour of her great aunt Mai McGinley; and creating sustainable garments for those who wish to express their individuality.

Hi Hollie, thank you for the interview. Could you tell us a little bit about yourself, please?

I am the founder and creative director of the luxury fashion brand Dare To Howl. I’m from Killygordon, and a graduate of ATU Letterkenny where I gained a BA Hons degree in Fashion with Promotion.

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How does it feel to make The Irish Times ‘50 People To Watch’ 2026 list?

I feel really privileged to be named, so close to graduating, especially knowing the calibre of talent in Irish fashion design at the moment. It’s even more special knowing I have not come from one of the top recognised fashion universities or a big city. I think it’s a win for Donegal. It’s time people stop focusing on the familiar and start thinking beyond the obvious. The talent among my peers in ATU alone was outstanding, which is testament to the fabulous team of lecturers who spend time with students (sometimes during non-working hours) and encourage their skills. ATU was not my first choice, I wanted to go to Manchester but was offered a sports scholarship at ATU and this changed my mind. It’s not easy when you’ve just turned 18 to make such life-changing decisions, especially when you see a lot of your peers moving away to study, but it was one that I’m glad I made, it is a fabulously supportive university.

Does it add pressure to have a great 2026 (you’ve just had a successful 2025, winning the ATU Innovation Award, showcasing at Ireland Fashion Week and Dublin Independent Fashion Week)?

I don’t feel any pressure to top my achievements of 2025; I’m trying to enjoy every moment. Everything has happened so fast and I’m so grateful. It’s great to see all my work appreciated and respected by people I’ve admired for so long. None of this has happened by chance, I work very hard to plan every detail and promote my brand daily. Every decision I’ve made so far has taken me on different trajectories; I love the unexpected opportunities that come my way. I often find that when this happens great things follow – so I’m always open to every offer that I feel aligns with my brand.

Your work is strong on sustainability and local heritage: was that always the plan, or has that emerged gradually?

I began my course thinking I would like to be a streetwear designer but when my lecturer Sharon Maxwell introduced her module on thinking beyond the obvious I realised my style was avant garde. This was reflected in my third-year collection, and where the idea for my spherical silhouette was formed. It wasn’t until my final year collection that my interest in heritage fabrics was established. Both my lecturers were great advocates for sustainability and traditional fabrics and when tasked with researching local industry and heritage fabrics I had excellent advice. My lecturer Eilish Kennedy is passionate about Donegal tweed. She inspired me to use my silhouette and create a style which was “daring and innovative” as described by Rosy Temple from Magee’s. I chose Magee 1866weaving for my graduate collection because of my great aunt Mai McGinley (née Long). Mai was a weaver’s wife, her husband Michael had been a weaver for Magee’s and they lived their entire married life in a weaver’s cottage in Inver. When Michael died she moved in with my granny and lived the last twelve years of her life near me. Mai died on Good Friday of my final year and sadly never got to see my work because of her failing eyesight; I was so happy that she got to hear about my designs and touch the tweed I was using. Which she described as being much smoother than the rough tweed she worked with alongside Michael. My extended boundaries graduate collection is dedicated to her memory. I was tasked with using this heritage fabric in one design but to keep my collection cohesive I used it in all my pieces. I’m delighted with the results. As I researched, I discovered Donegal’s quest for European P.G.I status which will protect this fabulous resource for our county; I based my marketing around this. This involved a photo shoot at Grianan of Aileach and a collaboration with the Irish folk singer Cara Dillon who kindly allowed me to use her version of the song ‘Both Sides The Tweed’, in my video.

What about people who look at catwalk shows and think “you’d never wear that”? Are they missing the point a little?

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If people look at my clothes on the catwalk and say you can’t wear them then I have achieved my objective. I’m not in the fast fashion market. My role as a designer is to create sustainable garments for those who wish to express their individuality, not those who are happy to look the same as everyone else. I want to show people it’s okay to slow down and choose quality over quantity. My designs are to be treasured and enjoyed whether as part of a capsule wardrobe, worn to a special event, or to create art. To me fashion is not about fitting in, it’s about standing out, it’s about the courage to wear your truth, your emotions, your art.

Hollie with one of the stunning runway models at Ireland Fashion Week 2025. Photo: Amel Pomenem

 

Your label, Dare To Howl – is that a deliberate call to self-expression?

Dare To Howl came after a lot of soul searching. My brand needed impact and depth to engage with the consumer and explain why it’s important to challenge the norm. I discovered the poem “Howl” by Allen Ginsberg and was impressed by its first line “I saw the best minds of my generation destroyed by madness”. These words felt as relevant today as they were when written in the 1950s. Mental illness and anguish is such an important topic in today’s society and it’s a cause I’d like to advocate for. Too many people have lost lives, families and sense of self to poor mental health and the pressures to conform. The aim of my brand is to challenge this. As part of the Dare To Howl community you can be who you want to be without judgement or fear of being typecast into the “weird” category. I’m not happy that “weird” is being celebrated. I feel it is a very negative term for a positive expression of individuality. People who don’t fit the norm are not “weird”, they are who they want to be and that should not come with a label or a judgement.

How much research and planning is needed to put a collection together?

Preparation is the key to everything, I love to research a theme and think beyond the obvious. I believe if you put in the hard work at the beginning the rest of the process happens naturally. For my Irish Sea design I didn’t just think of water and the landscape, I thought about what happens in the sea, what was marine life like, who played a major role in the sea, what it meant to sea communities, what happened in its history. Then I looked for common ground that aligned with my brand: this was the resilience of the women in history connected to the Irish Sea. Every aspect had to reflect the brand’s vision and sustainable principles. I’d connected with Magee’s weaving during my final year at ATU, and their brand mission on sustainability aligned with mine. When it was confirmed that I would showcase at Ireland Fashion Week I asked if they would like to sponsor the Donegal tweed fabric; I was delighted when they agreed. By saying yes, Magees not only took some of the financial burden, they offered to support me throughout the process. They welcomed me into their amazing mill, posted my journey on their social media and attended my Irish Sea graduate show at the Anantara Marker Hotel in Dublin. I can’t thank them enough, they’ve been amazing and so kind. I believe they are the heart of Donegal tweed and it was a privilege to represent their fabric on one of the most important moments in my career so far.

Do you have any other major projects for 2026?

Moving forward is scary, but I’m excited about what road this new challenge will take me on. I’ve recently launched my brand and my website www.daretohowl.com which I’m delighted with. As for future projects there are a few which I can’t talk about yet but trust me when I say I’m busy and moving in the direction. For now I will embrace it and enjoy the process.

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