By Paddy Walsh
WHEN someone has returned from one of the experiences of a lifetime by reaching Everest Base Camp, the most obvious question to ask is, would he do it again?
“I probably would do it again.” Pause. “But not today…!”
But you can be sure for the man who has already climbed the mighty Kilimanjaro, taken part in four marathons, and ran 5ks and 10ks in his bare feet, that it may feature at some time in the future.
Letterkenny native, John Wilkie, has done it all and returned recently from his latest adventure – an ambition fulfilled.
“Aw, it was a brilliant experience. I met the group I was climbing with before we started off. They were from Australia, Canada and the USA and then there was Frank McNamara from Bray, a great character.”
The Donegal flag makes it to Everest Base Camp.
And so they set off, some more experienced than others when it came to the great outdoors. “One of the sights to behold apart from the scenery was that of people carrying loads of timber and metal which they were taking to the wee shops and tea rooms that were located on route. Heavy going but they carried on.”
Just as John did when he hit the marathon equivalent of The Wall. “It was when I passed the 5,000 metres mark that the altitude got me. It was like having a four pound bag of spuds pressing down on your chest. My breathing was tight and I took Diamox. It doesn’t do away with it but it does ease it.
“Then, of course, I had a few runs to the toilet”. Runs being the operative word and toilets not quite an apt description for some of the facilities available.
“It also got very cold which was a little concerning. At the end of the day, I could have got choppered off but I’m a determined sort of person so I just kept going and am glad I did.
“Within a couple of days, I came round again, sort of like getting a second wind.”
A second wind and surroundings that are some of the most spectacular on earth.
“Nepal has 12 of the 14 highest mountains with the other two in Pakistan. There were some incredible views.”
Letterkenny’s Mr Adventure John Wilkie enjoying a relaxing moment while he waits for the off.
Adhering to a strict timetable, the group took eleven days to reach Base Camp where they spent around an hour before beginning their descent, trekking between four to eight hours a day.
“That’s the way it works out. You just get time to look at the scenery and get your photographs and then you’re off again. Even on the summit of Everest, they don’t spend too long. But it was an epic journey and one I’ll never forget.”
Before making the trek to Base Camp, John ran into fellow Letterkenny man and adventurer, Jason Black, whose team reached the summit of Everest. “Unfortunately they did it without Jason who was forced to turn back with an ankle injury but he put the team together and I’m sure there were some celebrations when they reached the top.”
For John and his group, there was much to celebrate too – an achievement few in the world will attain. “But it’s certainly very doable – there were families there doing the climb and loads of different groups out there.”
When they got back to base – as opposed to Base – they opted to walk to Lukla Airport which is described as the most dangerous airport in the world.
“But it wasn’t that that got to me. It was the hardest bit of walking I’ve ever done”, which coming from a four marathon man and someone who has taken part in events barefoot, sums it up.
John Wilkie negotiating a bridge on the way to Everest Base Camp.
Before his adventure to and from Everest Base Camp, John enjoyed another one – spending a week in the bustling – and bustling doesn’t quite do it justice – city of Kathmandu.
It took him three flights and a bus to get there so jet lag was a significant factor when he arrived in Nepal. “I couldn’t have walked up the stairs never mind got to Everest Base Camp.”
Consequently before the ascent, it was a descent – a descent into the madness and mayhem of the traffic in Kathmandu.
“It’s a city of 1.5 million people and you feel you’re meeting them all on any given day. Between cars and buses and a lot of motorbikes. Absolutely crazy. I’ll never complain about the traffic in Letterkenny again.”
He travelled around on a tambu, which he describes as “like a wee bus”.
“I’d head out in the morning and travel around visiting different parts of the city.
“There’s no dole or social welfare in Nepal so a lot of people are depending on tourism. And the shops open until late at night – a bit like the old Letterkenny on a Saturday night once upon a time.
“But there’s a lot of noise and you can’t get away from it until you go up the mountain.”
That trek to Everest Base Camp helped raise not just his adventurous spirit, his physical self to 5,180 metres, but also €5,406 for the charity Cancer Care West for which the Letterkenny man is a big supporter.
Back home again, John was planning to climb the less arduous Errigal mountain – something he has managed close to 90 times at this stage.
And no doubt in his mind’s eye matching the scenery with that of Nepal’s spectacular wonders.
And dreaming of night stops at Nanche Bazaar (3,440 metres), Tengloche (3,860 metres), and Lobuche (4,910 metres) and accommodation rest spots at Peaceful Lodge, Chumoa Quest House, and Snowland….