By Róise Collins
A BRAND new restaurant, named in honour of the legendary Nellie Gallagher, the renowned cook of Glenveagh Castle, opened at the Glenveagh Visitor Centre at the weekend.
Nellie, who comes from Dunlewey, began her remarkable 50 year career at Glenveagh in 1946.
During this time, Mr Henry McIlhiney welcomed a wide variety of fascinating guests to the castle in the Derryveagh Mountains, including actors, writers, poets and prominent politicians who visited. Nellie’s cuisine was loved by them all.
Her culinary talents also led her to travel the world with Mr McIlhinney, from his home in Philadelphia to Sydney, Australia and Honolulu, Hawaii.
In 1961 Nellie married Danny Gallagher. Keen to retain his talented cook, Mr McIlhinney converted the loft of the barn at the castle into an apartment for her and her family. Nellie and Danny went on to have four children, Joan, Don, Fiona, and Elaine, each whom went on to work in the castle at some stage.
Following Mr McIlhenny’s passing Glenveagh officially opened as a National Park. Nellie continued to work there under the OPW. She ran the Castle Tearooms which were famous for their delicious afternoon tea.
Nellie’s family and friends gathered at the opening last weekend.
Now 95 years old Nellie has plenty of stories and recipes to share, much to the delight of Chef Angelo Cervi, who has opened the restaurant alongside his partner Amanda Clarke.
Amanda, who has worked as a tour guide at Glenveagh National Park for ten years, became familiar with Nellie’s legacy through her work. It was her colleague Martina who suggested they name the restaurant after the last cook of the castle.
In preparation for the opening, Angelo and Amanda met with Nellie’s family, who presented them with a book in Mr McIlhinney’s own handwriting which contains daily menus curated for guests who visited the castle back in 1977.
Angelo was thrilled to browse through some of Nellie’s old menus, which detailed the finest of dining. He explained how he was shocked by the ingredients used.
“In Donegal in 1977 they were using avocados and figs,” Angelo laughed.
Nellie alongside her daughters Fiona and Elaine.
At least twice a week, Mr. McIlhenny would sit down with Nellie to plan menus. The food used was fresh, local, and seasonal, with vegetables coming from the gardens, fish fresh from Donegal rivers and the Atlantic, venison from the estate, and meat from local butchers.
Dried goods and staples were generally supplied by Dillon Brothers Supermarket in Letterkenny, while some other more exotic items were imported, including parmesan wheels from Italy, macadamia nuts from Hawaii and sugar wafers from Austria.
Angelo found the emphasis on local produce fascinating. “They grew a lot on the land which I found really fascinating.”
This has inspired the head gardener at Glenveagh Castle, who is currently planting produce such as potatoes, leeks and carrots, which will be used in the restaurant in the future. Nellie’s family also kindly provided them with a recipe book from 1955, containing the finest bakes. Once they find their feet, Angelo and Amanda hope to take inspiration from these original menus and recipe books to start themed nights in the restaurant, which will be a nod to the cuisine Nellie served to Mr McIlhinney and his esteemed guests throughout the years. This will include Nellie’s famous lemon meringue.
Angelo and Amanda pictured alongside the staff at Nellie’s Restaurant.
Speaking at the opening last weekend, Nellie’s family thanked Angelo and Amanda for choosing to name the restaurant Nellie’s, describing it as an “incredibly thoughtful gesture”.
Nellie’s Restuarant at the Glenveagh visitor centre is now open seven days a week. They’re also continuing to hire staff ahead of the busy summer season, including experienced chefs, waiting staff and kitchen staff. Contact nellies.glenveagh@gmail.com if you are interested in joining the team.
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